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How to Photograph the Northern Lights in Iceland – Phone & Camera

The Aurora Is Above You? Start Here

If you do not have time to read the whole guide, start here: on a phone, use Night Mode when available, turn off the flash and keep the device steady; on a camera, use a wide aperture, raise the ISO and begin with an exposure of a few seconds. For a strong, fast-moving Aurora, try a shorter exposure. For a faint Aurora, stabilise the device and gradually use a longer exposure. For a person under the Aurora, keep the exposure as short as conditions allow and ask the person to stay completely still.

Important: these are starting points, not universal settings. Aurora strength and movement, moonlight, local light, lens speed and the device itself all affect the result.

How to Photograph the Northern Lights with a Phone

A recent iPhone, Samsung Galaxy or Google Pixel can capture an excellent memory of the Northern Lights. Use Night Mode when available, turn off the flash and, above all, keep the phone still. A small tripod is ideal, but a car, rock, railing or backpack can also provide a firm support.

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Phone: Night Mode

Phone in Night Mode on a tripod with flash disabled.NightFlash OFF
Use Night Mode when available. Turn flash off, support the phone and stay still until capture finishes. Schematic interface; names and duration vary by phone.

Strong and faint Aurora need different approaches

A faint Aurora may appear pale or grey-green to your eyes while the phone records more colour because it can collect light for longer. Night Mode and stabilisation help here. When the Aurora becomes bright and moves quickly, an exposure that is too long can turn fine curtains into a green blur. The simple rule: the brighter and faster the Aurora, the less you need a long exposure.

Northern Lights Camera Settings Made Simple

If you use a DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual controls, focus on four things: aperture, ISO, shutter speed and focus.

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Where to find M (Manual)

Generic M mode dial and MODE menu, illustrating control types rather than a specific camera.P · A/SMMODE→ MDial or MODE / menu
Nikon, Canon, Sony and OM System: look for M on the mode dial or a MODE/menu selection, depending on the model. Fujifilm: PASM-dial models use M; on many models with separate controls, select both shutter and aperture manually rather than A. Confirm M on screen and check your model’s manual. Exposure M is different from focus MF.

Aperture — how much light enters the lens

Use a wide aperture when possible. Values such as f/1.8, f/2 or f/2.8 let in plenty of light. If your lens starts at f/3.5 or f/4, you can still photograph the Aurora — simply compensate with ISO and exposure time.

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Aperture: wider opening, more light

Three aperture openings: large f/1.8, medium f/2.8 and smaller f/4.f/1.8f/2.8f/4
At the same shutter speed and ISO, f/1.8 admits more light than f/2.8, and f/2.8 more than f/4. Use the aperture your lens allows; f/4 can still work.

ISO — brighter, but with more noise

As a starting range, try roughly ISO 800–3200. Higher ISO makes the image brighter but also increases digital noise, so the highest setting is not automatically the best one.

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ISO 800 → 1600 → 3200

Three schematic frames at ISO 800, 1600 and 3200, showing increasing brightness and visible noise.80016003200
Schematic comparison: at the same aperture and shutter speed, higher ISO produces a brighter image with more visible noise. Try 800, then 1600 or 3200 if needed. Results depend on the camera.

Shutter speed — how long the camera collects light

For a faint, slow Aurora, start with a few seconds and lengthen the exposure if needed. For a bright Aurora moving quickly, a shorter exposure — often around 1–5 seconds as an initial test — can preserve the curtains, lines and structure. Longer exposures can help with faint light but may blur a fast-moving display.

NERA · AURORA FIELD GUIDE

Shutter: 1s · 5s · 15s

Comparison of 1s, 5s and 15s: increasingly smeared lines of a fast-moving Aurora.1s5s15s
Same Aurora movement, different duration: 1s better preserves fast lines; 5s is a test point; 15s may collect faint light but smear moving curtains. This sketch illustrates movement, not guaranteed exposure. Adjust to the display.

Focus — do not rely on autofocus in the dark

Switch to manual focus and use a distant star or very distant light. Magnify the live view and adjust until the point is as sharp as possible. Do not simply turn the lens all the way to the infinity mark and assume focus is perfect.

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Focus: from a disc to a point

Out-of-focus star as a large disc and a focused star as a small sharp point.BlurredSharp
Select MF, magnify a distant star and adjust until it becomes a small, sharp point. The infinity mark is no guarantee. Recheck after moving the ring or reframing.

How to Photograph a Person Under the Northern Lights

Place the phone or camera on a tripod or solid support and ask the person to remain completely still. If the Aurora is bright enough, shorten the exposure and raise ISO if necessary. Avoid blasting a strong flash directly into the face; gentle, brief light can look more natural. Take several frames — one will usually be sharper than the others.

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Person + Aurora

Educational sketch of a still person beneath the Aurora and a camera on a tripod.
Camera on a tripod, person still, exposure as short as conditions allow. Use gentle brief light carefully, avoiding strong flash in the face. Check focus on a nearby person too: sharp stars do not guarantee a sharp subject.

Make It Look Like Iceland

Do not photograph only a green sky. Include a mountain, water and reflections, coastline, waterfall, small Icelandic church or house, snow, or a person in the foreground. The Aurora is the main event, but the landscape gives the photograph a story. Check the horizon too — darkness makes it surprisingly easy to discover the next morning that the sea appears to run downhill.

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Composition: sky + Icelandic landscape

Icelandic mountains and a small house beneath a schematic Aurora, with a thirds grid and level horizon.
Give the Aurora space, add a mountain, coast or house for scale, and keep the horizon level. The thirds grid is a guide, not a rule. This is a composition illustration, not a photograph of a real location.

Common Aurora Photography Mistakes

The most common mistakes are hand-holding a phone during a long exposure, using too long an exposure for a strong Aurora, missing focus, pushing ISO higher than necessary and — perhaps the biggest mistake — spending the entire display looking at a screen.

Before You Take the Photo: Find the Aurora

A good camera cannot photograph the Northern Lights through clouds. Before heading out, check more than the Kp index: cloud cover, local conditions, darkness and what is happening in the sky now can matter just as much. The NERA Aurora System connects that journey through Forecast → Alert → Knowledge → Aurora Hunt.

Your NERA path: check the Live Aurora Forecast → follow Aurora Alert → learn why the Kp index is not the whole story → see the best time for Northern Lights in Iceland → explore Aurora Hunt.

Capture the Memory — Then Watch the Sky

Take a few photographs. Check that you captured the moment. Take one more if you want. Then put the phone down and look at the sky. The Aurora changes from second to second, and no photograph can fully capture the feeling of watching it move above the Icelandic landscape for the first time.

Take the photo. Then put the phone down and watch the sky.

Dušan StojanovićNERA Iceland
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